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Author Topic:   Jugendstil & Secessionist Jewelry
rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 01-13-2005 01:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I thought I share a few examples of Jugendstil & Secessionist jewelry from my collection. Feel free to add to this thread...

The pieces in this post are all by Theodor Fahrner. Notice the "face" motif in the Gradl pins (which is a motif prevalent in a lot of Jugendstil jewelry, not just Fahrner).

A Max Gradl brooch with green stones (probably chrysoprase):

A Max Gradl brooch with lapis:

A hammered enamel convex brooch by Hermann Haussler:

A small geometric triangles brooch with chrysoprase and pearl drops (possibly by Franz Boeres):

A very modernistic styled geometric necklace with turquoises (possibly by C.F. Morawe or Julius Muller-Salem):

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 01-14-2005 12:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A few more examples by other makers of various designs...

A heavy gold washed 800 silver pin with chrysoprase by A Odenwald (Pforzheim) - any info on this maker would be appreciated. Stylistically it resembles Georg Kleeman:

A large 830 silver pin with a natural swirled brown stone cabochon mounted on a cross shaped ivory piece surrounded by 4 chrysoprase cabochons and coiled designs:

A large dimensional 800 silver pin concave in shape with raised center with turquoise. Silver is hammered, and there are 3 coiled wires in notches around the rim. Signed: RF and I have not been able to figure out who that might be:

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 01-14-2005 12:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A couple of Murrle Bennett & Co necklaces... They also made nice enamel jewelry, but the hammered Secessionist design pieces were likely from Pforzheim.

A silver amethyst and pearl festoon with hammered surface and fake rivets. Murrle Bennett often set their amethysts in gold colored bezels:

An unusual slide necklace with turquoises and Celtic knots. The surface is also hammered and there are fake rivets. The drops can be independently adjusted to different lengths for various looks:

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dragonflywink

Posts: 789
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 01-14-2005 10:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for dragonflywink     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Have always loved Skonvirke, so definitely familiar with Jugendstil, but how wonderful to see your absolutely stunning pieces. The "RF" piece with the center turquoise particularly appeals to me, it's gorgeous! Thanks for sharing.

Cheryl ;o)

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Paul Lemieux

Posts: 1694
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 01-14-2005 12:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Lemieux     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thank you for sharing these wonderful items from your collection! Jugendstil has always been one of my favorite styles, and yet I still haven't purchased any fine examples for my collection. I have a couple of "close but not quite" pieces. Probably because I am too cheap sometimes.

Like Cheryl, I am particularly taken by the RF pin. It is a very intriguing design. I also like the MB & Co items, especially the amethyst necklace. The little "rivets" are great.

Does anybody else have any Jugendstil jewelry (or silverware items)?

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 01-14-2005 03:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Jugendstil designs are among my favorite. You can definitely see some of the designs are very modernistic.

Here are some other views of the RF pin to show its construction:

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 03-13-2005 04:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Many Jugendstil (and English Arts & Crafts) brooches are very small, but detailed. This one measures only 1" across, and has blister pearls, garnet, and chrysoprase. It also looks a bit like a face:

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sazikov2000

Posts: 254
Registered: Jan 2005

posted 03-15-2005 09:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sazikov2000     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Very, very nice collection!
Thank you for exhibiting some of your treasures. Would like to see more.

Sazikov2000

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Scott Martin
Forum Master

Posts: 9147
Registered: Apr 93

posted 03-15-2005 03:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott Martin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Great stuff!!

I know that there are many regular visitors to our forums who rarely post and they also have spectacular Jugendstil & Secessionist jewelry collections. I have been lucky enough to see some small part of their jewelry collections. So many of the collections are kept locked up in bank safe deposit boxes that it can be a long time between views.

I think your photos are great and would love to see more. I would also like to encourage our silent Jugendstil & Secessionist jewelry collectors to do the same. If I can help by photographing something please let me know.

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 03-16-2005 01:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Glad to hear you are enjoying! If others have examples, I would love to see them, signed or unsigned. I'm running out of examples

Here are a few more:

An unsigned (depose 800) repousse brooch with chyrsoprase or dyed green chalcedony, very light gold wash:

A Fahrner Max Gradl brooch with lapis and gold wash (this one is pretty well known, and turns up from time to time):

A large heavy hammered brooch with blister pearl and blue and white enamel by Fahrner, probably Hermann Haussler:

A Fahrner "face motif" necklace with amethysts & pearl:

A transitional Fahrner floral necklace with matte black enamel, blister pearls, and a few marcasites:

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sazikov2000

Posts: 254
Registered: Jan 2005

posted 03-16-2005 09:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sazikov2000     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thank you again for enjoying my eyes and my heart!!
Sazikov2000

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Paul Lemieux

Posts: 1694
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 08-17-2005 03:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Lemieux     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Here is a Dutch example with a hammered finish, raised lines, and a square coral cabochon. It has a Dutch hallmark and the maker's mark, "L. Z. J." It is a charming pin, though not as daring in its design as most of the items pictured above.


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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 08-24-2005 12:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Nice design on your Dutch A&C brooch. I have not seen too many of those pieces. Ginger Moro has a nice online article about Dutch A&C jewelry here.

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 02-01-2008 01:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hi all,

Here are some more examples of early Fahrner jewelry:

A Fahrner gold (not silver) plique a jour pin with matrix opal, possibly by Max Gradl. Gold Fahrner pieces (especially early ones) are extremely rare:

A Fahrner enamel necklace with amethysts and pearls probably by Hermann Haussler:

An elaborate Fahrner necklace with amethysts and purple enamel:

A Fahrner "face motif" amethyst pin (ring may not be original):

A small Fahrner abstract blue enamel necklace by Franz Boeres:

And finally, one of my favorite pieces... a Fahrner blued steel and hematite pin by Max Gradl. Gradl's steel jewelry is among the earliest Fahrner jewelry, and is exceedingly rare:

- rat

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FredZ

Posts: 1049
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-01-2008 09:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for FredZ     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
These are very impressive pieces. Thanks for sharing them with us.

Fred

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Polly

Posts: 1098
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 02-01-2008 10:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Polly     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
How beautiful! Thank you for showing us.

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Paul Lemieux

Posts: 1694
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 03-10-2008 05:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Lemieux     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Here is a cute little jugendstil pin. It is not signed, it is only marked "900" in a box. The silver on the front is actually decorated with black enamel, it is not tarnished or oxidized as it may appear.

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Paul Lemieux

Posts: 1694
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 03-10-2008 06:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Lemieux     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
And another Amsterdam School silver & coral pin.

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Paul Lemieux

Posts: 1694
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 03-10-2008 07:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Lemieux     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Although this stickpin is American (and gold!), I thought it was good to post here. It was made in Newark by the Brassler Co.

There is a short bio of Hans Brassler in "The Glitter and the Gold" which accompanied an exhibition at the Newark Museum. Brassler was born in Germany and won a gold medal for his designs at the Paris Exposition. His Newark company, the Brassler Co., was founded by 1909 and Hans Brassler left the company in 1916. I am sure his stickpin dates from during Brassler's time there. To me it has a definite jugendstil feeling. The same stickpin, but with lapis, is pictured on p. 62 of "The Glitter and the Gold".

The company's mark is "14B" within an oval.

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 03-11-2008 03:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Paul, love that little triangular Jugendstil pin. Nice design.

Here's a mystery mark, which I've also seen on another piece of similar design (which looked like some early Fahrner designs). The stones are faceted amethyst. The hallmark is an S within an "arrow". If anyone knows anything about the maker, please let me know:

UPDATE: No longer a mystery. This is the mark of Christian Seybold.

- rat

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dragonflywink

Posts: 789
Registered: Dec 2002

posted 03-11-2008 05:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for dragonflywink     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just love this thread! Here's my modest contribution, an unsigned 835 peacock pin, with a back view showing the saw piercing.

~Cheryl


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Paul Lemieux

Posts: 1694
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 05-08-2008 08:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Lemieux     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A friend asked me to share her lovely Theodor Fahrner pin with the forum. It has silver wire "tendrils" surrounding a large oval amethyst. The pin is about 1 3/4" long. The pinstem is marked TF, 935, DEPOSE, and what might be a designer's mark, but I can't read it.

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Polly

Posts: 1098
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 05-08-2008 08:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Polly     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey, can I suggest that this thread would make the basis for a lovely slide show?

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jersey

Posts: 1172
Registered: Feb 2005

posted 05-09-2008 02:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jersey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hello Paul!
I agree with Polly a slide show would be nice.
A very lovely pin. Is that the color of the silver or should it be cleaned?

Jersey

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Paul Lemieux

Posts: 1694
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 05-25-2008 10:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Lemieux     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Today found a pretty Theodor Fahrner Arts & Crafts pendant. I love the little clusters of beads on the bottom, left, and top.

rat (or anybody with the Fahrner book), is the designer of this pendant known?

Does the chain look original? The clasp is a rhodium-plated replacement, so I can't tell by looking at that.

The pendant is marked TF STERLING GERMANY on applied plaques.

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 05-26-2008 02:16 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hi Paul,

FYI, your friend's lovely amethyst brooch with silver tendrils has got to be designed by Erich Kleinhempel... the design is just like the two necklaces pictured in the Fahrner book on pgs 112-113.

As for the leaf jewelry, I don't know who the designer(s) is. There are several different "typical" leaves that I've seen in Fahrner jewelry (yours is one of them), and the pieces I've seen generally included either faceted or cabochon cut stones. I have seen mostly brooches and pendants, and even a couple of bracelets. I've got a few leaf pins (I like the leaf jewelry as well), which I'll post photos of someday when I get a chance. There are a multitude of examples plus a writeup about the "Leaf Motif" in the Fahrner book.

I think the chain on your pendant could be right... but it is hard to tell from the photograph.

- rat

[This message has been edited by rat (edited 05-26-2008).]

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jersey

Posts: 1172
Registered: Feb 2005

posted 09-03-2008 07:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jersey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hi rat!
BTW I love your pieces.

Could you please let me know the title of the Fahrner book you have mentioned in your replies.

Thank you!

Jersey

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 09-04-2008 03:16 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hi jersey,

Thanks for the compliment on my collection. The Theodor Fahrner reference book is available in German or English (translated). It contains hundreds of examples of Fahrner jewelry of all periods, and is a fabulous reference regarding the work from this firm.

"Theodor Fahrner Jewelry...Between Avant-Garde and Tradition: Art Nouveau Art Deco the 1950s" by Ulrike Von Hase-Schmundt, Christianne Weber, and Ingeborg Becker

There are other good reference books I have on Jugendstil jewelry, including Fahrner. I can post the names if anyone would like.

- rat

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Polly

Posts: 1098
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 09-04-2008 09:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Polly     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Nice to visit this thread again.

Did anybody else get a chance to go to the Wiener Werkstatte jewelry show at the Neue Gallerie before it ended last week?

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June Martin
Forum Master

Posts: 984
Registered: Apr 93

posted 09-05-2008 10:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for June Martin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I absolutely love this thread!!

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Cheryl and Richard

Posts: 148
Registered: May 99

posted 09-16-2008 07:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Cheryl and Richard     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
We were fortunate to be able to go to the members' preview on March 26th. Many of the women were wearing the appropriate jewelry, and much of it rivaled the pieces in the exhibition.

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rat

Posts: 63
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 09-23-2008 01:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rat     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I am very upset to have missed the WW exhibition at the Neue Gallerie, but at least my friend went and got me a catalog and the book that went with the exhibition ("Wiener Werkstatte Jewelry, edited by Janis Staggs). There are some really fabulous pieces shown in the book. Luckily I got a chance to stare at a few Hoffmann pieces when the Arts & Crafts exhibition was at one of the Los Angeles Museums several years ago...

I was skimming the exhibition book, and came across a passage which I thought was interesting, but out of family with some pieces in my collection. On page 30 of the book, it says, "Strikingly, many objects produced by the firm bear not only the stamp of the artist who designed the piece, but also that of the craftsman who executed the work... Though the distinction between artist and craftsman would always be maintained - craftsmen never designed work - the idiosyncrasies and abilities of the artisan are an integral component to our appreciation of the completed work."

I have two brooches made by Wiener Werkstatte and marked only with Josef Wagner's monogram, and shown in this thread on Wiener Werkstatte Jewelry. Josef Wagner is listed as one of the WW silversmiths (i.e., one of the craftsmen), and his monogram is shown on page 30 of the book. My two brooches are very well designed, bear full WW hallmarks, and only the monogram of JW for Josef Wagner. So it would appear to me that at least one of the craftsmen designed jewelry (unless he was the dedicated craftsman to one of the designers).

- rat

[This message has been edited by rat (edited 09-25-2008).]

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