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| Author | Topic: Small Repairs |
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lisa Posts: 63 |
posted 03-01-2005 10:04 PM
  
Does anyone have any suggestions for making small repairs (removing fine sctatching, poor mono removals, small dings or "flea bites")to silver without using the services of a professional? This is in the case of the repair costing more than the piece of silver. Thanks for the eraser info on getting rid of the little black spots. IP: Logged |
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wev Moderator Posts: 4121 |
posted 03-01-2005 10:31 PM
Why do you wish them removed? They are part and parcel of the piece's history and should be left, like that tattered old paint on my mother's Newport lowboy, untouched. Nothing breaks my heart more than to see the soul of a piece "improved" away by the best of intentions. IP: Logged |
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lisa Posts: 63 |
posted 03-02-2005 01:31 PM
In the case of some pieces, if they are used, a "flea bite" on a bowl edge would be annoying while eating. I like monograms, but some people can ruin the charm of a piece by scratching the mono off. I would like to make that not as noticeable. IP: Logged |
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agleopar Posts: 850 |
posted 03-02-2005 11:59 PM
Lisa, marhaba (sp?), you ask what seems a simple question but really is not so simple because silver due to its soft nature needs care when working with it. This is not rocket science, but does require a sensitivity that usually comes with time and an understanding of the steps involved to get a good finish. One way to learn is a silversmithing or jewelery course... where the right tools and proper techniques are shown. This may seem overkill but it really is hard to give advice about what seems simple and is not because, for instance the things you asked about have very different solutions (burnishing would be a step in the right direction for all, but badly done would be worse and there are other things that would work). Maybe some one else will give a simpler answer. In the mean time I hope this is helpful? IP: Logged |
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Dale Posts: 2132 |
posted 03-03-2005 01:06 AM
Just learning to do buffing and polishing can be a formidible undertaking. While all the processes appear simple in description, they require a great deal of skill. The jewelry course really does pay off. And learning the steps under supervision and with the correct tools also is very important. Buffing can remove the flea bites, but one slip can ruin the item. None of these things are easy if you don't have the skill. And the only way to get the skill is to practice over and over until you master them. My own experience is that the overwhelming majority of the silver buying public likes the buffed to death look on their silver. Never do this to coin silver, but for most post 1900 stuff it satisfies the market. And annoys purists, who will make a point of letting you know. Inept monogram removals are really an abomination. I personally feel that people should learn to live with monograms or not buy silver. But, the market is filled with loonies who want a genuine 1860's fork without the inevitable 1860's monogram. There is no good way to deal with these people. They are not reality oriented. I have tried for many years to make sense of this situation to no avail. Afraid none of this is very helpful, but good luck. IP: Logged |
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lisa Posts: 63 |
posted 03-03-2005 01:12 AM
I have seen an add for a local silversmith in my area (Randy Stromsoe) so may contact him to find out about working with silver. I would really like to learn more about the craft. IP: Logged |
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FredZ Posts: 1070 |
posted 03-03-2005 12:01 PM
Lisa, Randy will be an excellent choice. He worked with Porter Blanchard before they closed and inherited their tools as well. Burnishing is my technique of choice in many restorations. Fred IP: Logged |
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agleopar Posts: 850 |
posted 03-03-2005 01:37 PM
If Randy can not teach and you have no schools or courses in your area a good alternative could be one of the many craft schools who offer weekend or 1-3 week sessions. They usually have a very high leval of competence because the teachers are working crafts peaple. Not to mention they are a lot of fun, both because you get to see other crafts and socially usually an interesting mix. Perhaps Fred would give one on burnishing! IP: Logged |
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Clive E Taylor Posts: 450 |
posted 03-18-2005 02:50 PM
Another factor to take into account is the PATINATION of the silver. All silver gets a fine coating of scratches and a chemical suface change that can take literally centuries to develop. Whereas removing some damage physically is a good idea, anything which removes the patination - mechanical cleaning and heat are the worst offenders- will give the silver that New look which some collectors like - and many more think ruins the piece. With any item more than fifty years old you should think at least twice before risking de-patination. IP: Logged |
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nihontochicken Posts: 289 |
posted 03-18-2005 04:11 PM
As a matter of fact, I just received two Old English Pattern serving spoons c.1810 acquired in a long distance transaction, which spoons have been apparently buffed on a wheel using metal shop polishing compound, judging from the residue left in spots. Ouch! I wrote the seller to advise not doing that again. Sigh. IP: Logged |
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Clive E Taylor Posts: 450 |
posted 03-18-2005 05:57 PM
I know the feeling. Some-one I know lent a very good viniagrette to a dealer for a possible client. The dealer (who is fairly well known) had it mechanically cleaned before offering to his client - who refused it. The two people are still not talking to each other.Murder has not, as yet , occured. It is a matter of opinion of course. The original finish would have probably the bright metallic white of hard planishing, but most collectors prefer the slight grey of an old patina. Cleaning with a soft cloth (I use well washed surplus cotton underpants !) and good silver polish is usually OK but soap and water is the best if the piece is not tarnished . All cleaning causes some wear -even if microscopic. IP: Logged |
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swarter Moderator Posts: 2920 |
posted 03-18-2005 06:34 PM
quote: Don't apologize. It is an important point, and repeated often enough, might sink in! IP: Logged |
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