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tline3open  Silver and copper necklace

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Author Topic:   Silver and copper necklace
blackbird

Posts: 17
Registered: Dec 2008

iconnumber posted 06-28-2010 06:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for blackbird     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
[26-1997]

Hi, folks --

I haven't been here for a while, so I'll reintroduce myself.

I collect silver jewelry, and I especially like mixed metal pieces. Many months ago you helped me identify a Christoph Kay necklace/watch chain, and I'm hoping you can help me with this necklace. It's one of my favorite pieces.

There is no maker's mark, and it is marked sterling on the back of one of the panels. It's made of silver and copper, and I'm guessing there are Southwestern influences here, perhaps from the 1950s. It measures 16 inches or so.

Any idea as to origins, dating?

Thanks.

(Sorry the detail photo's a little fuzzy.)

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Dale

Posts: 2132
Registered: Nov 2002

iconnumber posted 06-30-2010 03:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dale     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What a wonderful necklace. The design is so striking; it has a 60's feel to me. But I am not an expert on that subject. It looks like there should be matching earrings. How did you find it?

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blackbird

Posts: 17
Registered: Dec 2008

iconnumber posted 06-30-2010 08:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for blackbird     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dale, I agree, could be 60s as well. I found this in a little antique shop in the East Village (NYC) several years ago. Saw it in the window and couldn't resist, and of course I paid too much for it. So I wear it as much as I can so the 'cost-per-wear' goes down. I wouldn't be surprised if it once had matching earrings, but I don't have them now. I have been searching for a matching bracelet, but no luck. Thanks.

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Kimo

Posts: 1627
Registered: Mar 2003

iconnumber posted 06-30-2010 06:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kimo     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
1950s is possible, but I get more of a 1960s vibe when looking at it. It has a very "hand made" look to it as well - as if it is the product of a small local jewelry maker or a talented student who made it by first making a number of small pieces by fusing wire, beads and small slices of copper together then assembling them with wire and band loops. The end result is very attractive.

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blackbird

Posts: 17
Registered: Dec 2008

iconnumber posted 06-30-2010 09:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for blackbird     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks, Kimo. It's interesting that both replies so far figure it's a 60s piece rather than 50s. Can you tell me what about it says 60s? I was taken with the construction as well as the design -- not only is the necklace hand-constructed, but the individual copper elements appear to be handmade as well.

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Dale

Posts: 2132
Registered: Nov 2002

iconnumber posted 07-01-2010 12:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dale     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The style is somewhat archaic, suggesting it is based on an earlier piece. This is more typical of the 60's than the 50's when silversmiths were consciously modern. The spiral motif began to be used then as a symbol for feminists, particularly spiritually oriented ones. Plus, most 50's jewelry I have seen was rather petite. This is a fairly large scale necklace. In the 60's, the neo-barbarian look came in. Plus the great revival of handicrafts began then. It also seems to have seen the start of the upstart jewelry maker who did not mark her work. By the late 60's, there were shops selling hippy crafts everywhere. There just were not outlets for hand made jewelry much before 1965. Most of the craft shows began about then.

We tend to forget how greatly US life changed in the 60's.

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dragonflywink

Posts: 993
Registered: Dec 2002

iconnumber posted 07-01-2010 06:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for dragonflywink     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just popping in for a second, but wanted to say that's a great looking piece, I have a weakness for mixed metals too. Must agree with your 1950s dating, give or take a couple of years either way. My first thoughts were that it reminded me of the some of the Rebajes and Renoir copper jewelry, and some of the nicer Mexican silver pieces by makers like Victoria and Margot (not that I think any of those have a connection). Have you checked in the Marbeth Schon Modernist jewelry books? Suspect it will be difficult to pin down the maker, kind of surprising that they didn't sign their work.

~Cheryl

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blackbird

Posts: 17
Registered: Dec 2008

iconnumber posted 07-01-2010 08:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for blackbird     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Very, very interesting, Dale. I think I'll revise my date to c. 1960 (instead of c. 1950), which I think will cover everyone's suspicions. I do agree that it could be 60s, and I do see your point about the arts and crafts influence as opposed to the modernists. That spiral design element goes way back; I've seen it on pre-Columbian pieces displayed at the Met. Thanks for your thoughts and analysis.

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blackbird

Posts: 17
Registered: Dec 2008

iconnumber posted 07-01-2010 08:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for blackbird     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Cheryl, thanks. I have checked Marbeth's books, and her web site, with no luck. I think it's just the product of one unknown person working in his/her studio (or at the kitchen table). I've tried through the years to match this kind of work to other pieces, hoping that the maker eventually got around to signing her work, but... Well, now it's out there, in case someone, someday recognizes this hand.
I appreciate everyone's feedback on this. Keep it coming.
Best,
Jackie

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