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tline3open  Pierced Spoon - Victorian Convert?

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Author Topic:   Pierced Spoon - Victorian Convert?
seaside650

Posts: 3
Registered: Jan 2007

iconnumber posted 01-20-2007 06:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for seaside650     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
[26-1327]

Hi -

I bought this spoon recently, and although it is hallmarked for England, Birmingham 1892 it doesn't look quite right. There are lots of dints on the back that look like they may once have been hallmarks, so I was wondering whether this spoon is actually much older and has been reworked in 1892.

I can't find out any more information on the web, does anyone know a site that could help?

Many thanks in advance for your help, Laura



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vathek

Posts: 966
Registered: Jun 99

iconnumber posted 01-20-2007 08:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for vathek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The spoon looks cast, which would make reworking unlikely. It also has a more pronounced Dutch look to me.

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seaside650

Posts: 3
Registered: Jan 2007

iconnumber posted 01-20-2007 08:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for seaside650     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thank you - would casting explain the dints at the back? I think it is a sugar sifter, but it may be a berry spoon?

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Scott Martin
Forum Master

Posts: 11573
Registered: Apr 93

iconnumber posted 01-20-2007 09:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott Martin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Your item was made by casting. From the looks of it, it was sand casting. An original item, or as it may be in this case, another casting form (made up from more than one item), are pressed into a block of very fine sand. The original/form is carefully removed from the sand and hot metal/silver is gently pored into the negative impression left in the sand and allowed to cool. In this case, it was an open casting so the back (top side of the item) was buffed to clean up the look.

This is not a good example of quality casting. Manufacturers (i.e., Gorham) have been known to use casting to make a few specialize items to round out a pattern line. They do this because a few items don't merit the cost of making a die. The casting techniques they tend to use are more involved and refined so results produced are very high quality & near the look of a die casting.

Hopefully you don't feel you paid a lot for this (remember we don't discuss actual values on this forum) and like your purchase. Some people enjoy collecting these faux items. If you intend to use this with food get one of those lead testing pencils/pens and make sure they didn't add lead to the metal mix.

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seaside650

Posts: 3
Registered: Jan 2007

iconnumber posted 01-20-2007 09:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for seaside650     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thank you for your help - I really like the spoon!

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2209patrick

Posts: 37
Registered: Mar 2006

iconnumber posted 01-20-2007 10:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 2209patrick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just in case you were not aware of this, I believe the maker of your spoon was Nathan & Hayes (George Nathan & Ridley Hayes).

Pat.

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swarter
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Posts: 2920
Registered: May 2003

iconnumber posted 01-20-2007 01:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for swarter     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The marks on this spoon appear to have been cast along with the spoon itself, rather than being applied after it was made. This means that the model from which the casting was made was made new and hallmarked sometime prior to the making of the casting, rather than being an even older spoon being duplicated. Since there are no newer hallmarks, the casting was likely not made in England.

[This message has been edited by swarter (edited 01-20-2007).]

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salmoned

Posts: 336
Registered: Jan 2005

iconnumber posted 01-21-2007 03:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for salmoned     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
With no intention of contradicting Swarter, the marks appear much smoother than the surrounding cast surface. If they were cast as well, I would expect casting defects similar to those of the surrounding area (which I don't see here). Cleaning the marks may improve the picture.

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agleopar

Posts: 850
Registered: Jun 2004

iconnumber posted 01-22-2007 07:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for agleopar     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I agree with salmoned because the rough look that swarter rightly points out is only on the high parts (top of the lion, letters) but the back ground is clean which means that the marks were struck over the cast surface.

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FWG

Posts: 845
Registered: Aug 2005

iconnumber posted 01-22-2007 09:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for FWG     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The marks also show rather more detail than the other aspects of the casting. I was also inclined to think that it was cast and then hallmarked, rather than a later cast copy -- that is to say, that it it is 'right'. But I don't know the firm's work; were they known for relatively low-quality pieces?

I use that phrase not to disparage, but just because a high quality piece would have had much more work put into cleaning up the casting flaws and adding better surface detail -- the same reason many seem to feel it is basically a fake.

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Kimo

Posts: 1652
Registered: Mar 2003

iconnumber posted 01-22-2007 09:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kimo     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It is always so hard to be sure without having the object in your hand to get its feel and to study it up close with a loupe and so I may be mistaken, but from the photo I am going along with those who are saying it is a poorly made fake made by casting from a real one. The casting is very poorly done - not only the back but also on the front. I am also seeing a fair amount of roughness in the marks which says to me that they were not applied after it was cast but rather they are a part of the cast. Without mentioning every flaw in the marks that I see (there are so many), just a couple of the very obvious ones are all of the bubbles in the 'N', the extra rough metal at the base of the ampersand and the 'H', the cartouches not being flat (rough areas)in the anchor, 's', and lion, and on and on. If these were applied by typical high quality hallmarking dies after the spoon was cast they would stand out like beacons in terms of relative crispness that I am not seeing. My guess is this is a modern fake made in Asia for the flea market trade. I also would recommend against using it for food without first having it tested to see just what the metal might be, expecially since there is a chance it may include some lead or other nasty material in the alloy.

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Paul Lemieux

Posts: 1800
Registered: Apr 2000

iconnumber posted 01-23-2007 01:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul Lemieux     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, maybe Nathan & Hayes were asked to make a duplicate of a pre-existing Dutch spoon. Perhaps a customer had one and wanted a matched pair. This might explain the poor quality casting on this example (many of those Dutch spoons were already poorly cast to begin with). I agree that this spoon has a very Dutch look.

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adelapt

Posts: 418
Registered: May 2003

iconnumber posted 01-23-2007 02:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for adelapt     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I think it's most likely that Nathan & Hayes imported the spoon and then submitted it to the assay office as they would have been legally obliged to do. The spoon is a relatively common type for the period, usually from Holland, along the lines of the stuff coming into England from the specialist makers of Hanua. The marks looked OK to me.

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swarter
Moderator

Posts: 2920
Registered: May 2003

iconnumber posted 01-23-2007 12:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for swarter     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

Even with increased contrast and sharpness these marks do not look clean enough to me to be original stampings. A better original image would help, but as has been said, there is no substitute for having an object in hand.

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agleopar

Posts: 850
Registered: Jun 2004

iconnumber posted 01-24-2007 08:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for agleopar     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
To help this debate a quick survey of marking silver to clarify what happens to different surfaces when they are struck with a punch, might be useful?

When polished sheet silver is marked with a steel punch with a polished face and letters carved into the face and struck with a hammer onto the silver that is supported by a polished stake (such as a flat steel surface plate) the mark will be bright and clean on the top and bottom.
It will still need to be "set" which means that the back of the mark will protrude from the surface of the underside of the silver and by hammering from the front with a piece of lead between the hammer and the silver on a surface plate the mark will now sit flat. For spoons the lead is unnecessary and the marks are just plannished out with a polished hammer, that is why they tend to be squished on old spoons.

If the silver to be marked had rough file marks and you struck the marking punch as above the background around the raised letters of the marking punch would compress the file marks and with one strike they would subtly still be visible but with two strikes probably not.
The raised letters would still show the file marks because the force needed to compress the silver up into the cut letters is more than the effort to compress what is under the flat surface of the punch. If the punch was struck a third time or had been hit so hard to do the job the silver sheet would be very stressed or thin.

The mark when polished would loose those file marks but then would be worn or rounded so it is always better to pre-polish and then mark.

So far we are talking about marking good quality rolled or hammered sheet or bar silver, with cast silver it is different. Castings tend to be soft and punky compared to sheet. Also poor castings or poorly finished castings have a grainy surface.

Since they are delicate, i.e. if you struck a casting hard it probably would crack, they need to be struck lightly.

This spoon is a good example of what happens when you mark a bad casting. The background around the letters does show a slight pebble surface instead of a good clean one and the raised letters definitely have the cast surface still intact. Which looks to me that it was struck on top of the casting.

I hope this is clear and helpful; I am talking in generalizations about something that is very subtle. It took me years to mark well and I still blow it once and a while, double strikes, badly set marks, etc. When it goes well and you are left with a sharp, crisp, well-struck mark it feels like it will be there for a long, long time!

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Kayvee

Posts: 204
Registered: Oct 2004

iconnumber posted 01-24-2007 09:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kayvee     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Agleopar's description of how punches are struck is the best I've ever read. This post definitely goes into the keeper file. Thank you!

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